Blankets are not required – unless they help your horse.

 

Your horse may or may not need blanketing, just like they may or may not need clipping. It’s an option to help your horse be more comfortable in the weather, and for some horses, adding blankets will help them stay warmer, especially if they are a hard keeper. As a bonus, many horses will also stay cleaner during the blanket season.

 

When to Use Horse Blankets and Sheets

 

• Use sheets and blankets when your horse’s coat does not match the weather.

 

• They could be body clipped, or there’s a cold snap, or they are thinner-skinned and lighter-coated. There are plenty of reasons a coat won’t match the climate.

 

• You could also use blankets if your horse has difficulty maintaining or gaining weight in the winter. In such cases, the blanket allows your horse to use their food and forage as sustenance instead of fuel to keep them warm. A horse’s body can’t always rely on their digestive health to maintain weight, especially during the lowest temperatures of the season.

 

• Let temperature guide the blanketing choice and make adjustments as necessary to maintain a healthy level of warmth.

 

Skin and coat health

 

• Some skin conditions or medical procedures might require the area to stay very clean, and blankets can help. A skin infection might benefit from being covered so that mud and dirt don’t exacerbate the issue.

 

• You can also add blankets if wet weather is ongoing and your horse’s coat can’t keep up. Ideally, a horse’s natural winter coat will protect them, but sometimes, the weather is so bad they will soak through to the skin. Wet weather is more dangerous in colder areas of the country.

 

• Some horses lack sufficient sebum, which is their natural oil. Aside from making a coat shine, sebum is waterproofing. When a horse’s coat isn’t waterproof enough, they will soak through.

 

Clipped horses or those with genetically short winter coats may need blanketing.

 

Blankets for unclipped horses

 

• If your horse is unclipped and their natural winter coat is not keeping up with the weather, you can always add blankets. And yes, this will compress the hair, so those natural air pockets will not be 100% effective. When you add a blanket, this acts like a layer of air pockets. Plus, the blanket or sheet will provide waterproofing.

 

• You can sometimes determine if a horse needs extra warmth via a sheet or blanket when they lose weight. You can see weight loss or gain trends when you weigh your horse weekly with a weight tape.

 

Horse Blanket Guide – Understanding Blanket and Sheet Options

 

• The options for your horse’s wardrobe can be overwhelming. The horse industry uses many different terms to describe sheets and blankets, making shopping easier.

 

• Sheets are typically one layer, or they might be one layer with a lining and are perfect for milder temps. Blankets are filled with lovely soft fluff that acts like another insulation layer.

 

Turnout sheets and blankets

 

• Turnouts are waterproof sheets and blankets for outdoor use. They allow for a lot of movement and usually have more coverage. Your horse can run, play, and do horse things while staying covered and protected.

 

• Turnout sheets and blankets typically have large gussets for more shoulder room, a tail flap to cover the top part of the tail, a surcingle or two straps around the belly, and either a tail cord or leg straps for the back of the blanket. They are fantastic general use blankets!

 

• You’re more likely to see higher necks, neck pieces, and hoods with turnouts because those sections provide more coverage against the weather.

 

Stable sheets and blankets

 

• Stable sheets and blankets are for use inside the barn. They’re typically not waterproof. Often, they are quite fancy with decorative cording, embroidery, or customizations of your horse’s name. A stable blanket or sheet has a simple design, often without gussets for the shoulder and without tail coverings.

 

• Sheets are fantastic to have if you are going to show or need an underlayer while your horse wears a turnout on top.

 

• And just like turnouts, stable sheets have varying fill to provide more insulation.

 

This rain sheet keeps this silly hard-keeping TB safe in the rain. 

 

Denier and Fill

 

• When you shop for blankets, you will see terms like denier and fill.

 

Denier is thickness

 

• Denier is a unit of measure related to the thickness of a single fiber within the fabric and is denoted by a D. The higher the denier of a fabric, the denser, tougher, and more waterproof it will be. Horse blankets range from 600 D up to about 1800 D. A lower denier means less durability, while a higher denier means more strength and waterproofing.

 

• As fabric technology improves, you will also find that some turnouts have ripstop technology, which helps stop a small tear from becoming large.

 

Fill is the fluff

 

• The fill of a blanket refers to how many grams of fill, which is padding or fluff, is in the blanket to create insulation. They will arrange from 50g all the way up to 400g and more.

 

• The more filling a blanket has, the warmer and more insulating it is. It will also be slightly heavier and thicker to fold.

 

• The fill will also determine whether a blanket is labeled light, medium, or heavy weight. Lightweight blankets are typically around 100g. Medium weight blankets are typically 200g to 300g, and a heavyweight would be considered more than 300g.

 

• The correct fill for your horse’s blankets depends on your horse’s needs. Easy keepers may need a light and medium weight, whereas a hard keeper needs extra calories and more fill to keep their body heat at the best warmth level.

 

Gussets

 

• Gussets are additional pieces of fabric sewn into the blanket to allow the horse more freedom of movement. They are typically found at the shoulders.

 

• Depending on the style and brand of the particular blanket or sheet, the guess it might be low and forward or higher closer to the weather, and your horse’s shoulder confirmation will either work with this or not.

 

• Some blanket styles are the “hug” style, where the neck swings around like a wrap dress. This style doesn’t need gussets.  

 

Clearly this blanket doesn’t fit.  The chest closure can’t even close! 

 

Surcingles and leg straps

 

• Surcingles are the girth of the blankets. Sometimes, it’s as simple as a single strap around their belly, just behind the elbows. Other styles have crisscross straps covering a little more of the belly area.

 

• Leg straps keep the back half of the blanket from flapping up in the wind. They wrap around each gaskin and should cross under your horse. A tail cord might go from side to side under the tail instead of leg straps.

 

• The disadvantage of using a tail cord is that it will often catch the urine stream of mares and spread it everywhere. Or, it will catch manure.

 

Chest closures

 

• The chest closure of your sheet or blankets keeps it connected under your horse’s neck, and it might be snaps or buckles or fancy dials that click into place. Chess closures might also resemble the T lock, which you usually see on the surcingles.

 

• You can quickly buckle up and unbuckle the chest closure when wearing thick winter gloves. The best chest closures adjust to accommodate your horse’s shoulders.

 

Tail Flaps

 

• Flaps to a couple of things for your horse. They protect the top of the tail from moisture, rain, and snow. They help keep the back of the blanket less likely to fly up.

 

• Some horses might find a tail flap irritating or itchy and rub more. Or the tail flap might interfere with passing manure or urinating to the point where your horses are uncomfortable.

 

• Some tail flaps are removable, which makes for flexibility and touchup laundering.

 

Neck openings and neckpieces

 

• The neck opening is the circumference of fabric that travels from the chest closure up to the withers, and a traditional blanket will have the neck opening rest just in front of the withers.

 

• Newer styles include higher necks, with an extra swap of fabric covering more of the neck. This change of neck style can help alleviate rubs around your horse’s withers.

 

• Full models include covering the entire neck from the test closer to the throat latch and withers to poll. This neckpiece might be detachable or permanent.

 

• Adding a neckpiece will also increase coverage, thus retaining more heat. Often, using a 100g fill blanket with the neck is the equivalent of using a 200g blanket without a neckpiece. It’s like wearing jeans instead of shorts when it’s chilly outside.

 

This blanket sits ahead of the withers, which is great. 

 

Other specialty features 

 

• You might also find sheets and blankets with adjustable neck openings for the perfect fit.

 

• Sometimes, padding lines the weather area for cushion and prevention.

 

• Blankets might have a liner system with special clips inside the shell for different liners or another layer of filled fabric.

 

• The front closures can also eliminate some of the pressure around the shoulder area.

 

Coolers and Irish Knits

 

• Coolers are thinner blankets, usually wool or fleece that help your horse dry from a bath or sweating. Irish knits are a cooler with thinly knit cotton, allowing maximum air circulation.

 

• Horse coolers, no matter the fabric, wick moisture from your horse, which aids in drying and helps a horse safely recover from cold-weather exercise. You don’t want a wet horse hanging out in cold weather.

 

• Some coolers, called quarter sheets, are shaped specifically for use while riding. Quarter sheets cover a horse’s rump and wrap over your legs or under the saddle flap. This style of horse cooler is perfect for warming up and cooling out in winter weather.

 

Wool coolers

 

• Wool coolers of years gone by are square, covering your horse from poll to tail. Many don’t have any closures and simply drape over your horse.

 

• You can also find wool coolers shaped like other horse blankets, complete with chest closures and surcingles.

 

• Wool has the distinct advantage of being the warmest cooler material and the most effective at wicking moisture. It’s also heavier, so your wool quarter sheet won’t flap around on windy days.

 

The downside to wool coolers

 

• Washing anything wool can go sideways fast, often shrinking and felting in the blink of an eye. Any agitation while wet makes the fibers shrink.

 

• To clean a wool cooler, use a big tub and cold water. Dunk the cooler in and let it sit. You can add a drop or two of mild, wool-friendly detergent.

 

• Let everything sit for 10 minutes or so. Don’t swirl, squish, jostle, wring, or manipulate the wool.

 

• Then, you can remove the cooler from the water. Press it between towels to remove water, then lay it flat to dry.

 

This collection of dirty-ness includes an Irish knit and fleece coolers. 

 

Fleece coolers

 

• Fleece is a more manageable fabric to launder – toss it in the washer. Many can go in the dryer, too.

 

• Depending on the brand, the thickness will vary. Heavy-duty fleece is obviously better for heavier coats in colder weather.

 

Irish knits

 

• The cotton or cotton blend of Irish knits, plus the airy design, make these ideal coolers for warm weather. There’s too much airflow for cold winter air.

Horse Blanket Guide – Find Your Horse’s Size

 

• Finding the right blanket for your horse is a lot like shopping for jeans. First, you start with a size, and then you can compare brands and features until you find the best options.

 

• Blanket manufacturers label their blankets in inches after measuring from the chest closure straight across to the end of the blanket.

Measure your horse

 

• Use a flexible measuring tape to measure your horse for a blanket, sheet, or cooler, and borrow a friend for some extra hands.

 

• Start at the middle of their chest and stretch it to their rump, keeping the tape horizontal as you move back.

 

• Where you stop measuring is where the blanket will stop. An excellent place to stop is that nice junction between their tail hair and their cute butt. If you stop too far away from their tail, they might have some butt cheek hanging out in the wind. If you stop in the middle of their tail, you will likely have extra fabric.

 

• Remember that many manufacturers and styles will fit your horse differently; measurements are an excellent place to start.

 

• If your horse measures an odd number, like 77 inches, round up to the nearest even number. The blanket size would be 78.

 

A simple weight tape is perfect for measuring your horse for blanket fit. 

 

Selecting the Perfect Horse Blanket

 

• There are many key factors to consider when selecting the perfect horse blanket. Think about the following, and you will have the ideal shopping guide.

Fill and Denier

 

• Will your horse go outside wearing this blanket? If so, it needs to be a turnout, even if the weather is always perfect. You will have a tougher fabric that is less likely to tear, and your horse will have more freedom to move around as they play, graze, and interact with friends.

• How much fill does your horse need if your horse grows the thickest coat ever and you only need to add protection from the rain? Opt for a sheet if your horse is a hard keeper, has a thin winter coat, or is clipped. Depending on your climate, you might also need a medium and a heavyweight. You can also layer blankets.

 

• How destructive is your horse? Do they make it their life mission to damage expensive things? If so, use sheets and blankets with the highest denier you can find.

 

Gussets and straps

 

• Think about the gusset’s location and size and how it relates to your horse’s confirmation. Generally speaking, gussets that are higher create more room. But sometimes, the point of a horse’s shoulder develops rubs and might benefit from a gusset that is lower and a little more forward.

 

• Choosing the best color and pattern is essential, not just for fashion, but sometimes it’s a safety issue, too. You can find sheets and blankets in orange, which is crucial in areas that allow hunting. Many blankets also have reflective stripes for the safety and convenience of seeing them in the dark.

 

• Decide if you prefer leg straps or tail cord. A cord is easier and faster to apply and remove, but leg straps are often more secure and won’t take urine and manure on a side trip.

 

Should you layer blankets or buy more?

 

• It’s often more convenient to layer blankets, and it might save you some money in the long run.

 

• For example, you could layer a medium weight and a lightweight to get a heavyweight when needed. This is great if you rarely need a heavyweight.

 

• Or you could layer two lightweights, or a sheet and a lightweight one if the winters are mild and your horse is fuzzy.

 

• You could purchase specific blanket liners to layer, but using two turnout sheets together is fine. You could also put a stable sheet or blanket under the turnout for more layers.

 

• And, it’s sometimes easier to add and remove layers instead of removing everything and switching blankets when the weather has big swings in temperature.

 

  

This is a few layers of blanket!

 

Horse Blanketing Safety and Tips

 

• Let’s not forget that horses sometimes fear their shadows, and not all horses enjoy being blanketed or unblanketed.

 

• The smartest thing you could do to keep yourself and your equine buddy safe is to not pull the blanket over their head. Even if your horse is the steadiest and most “bombproof” horse ever, there is still the chance that they will spook when that blanket is covering their face.

 

• Remove blankets daily to inspect and groom your horse.

 

• Keep the open end of the snaps facing your horse. These majestic creatures we love so much are experts at getting hooked on things.

 

• Take a closer look at the shoulders, withers, and the inside and back of the hind legs for signs of broken hair, rubs, and sores.

 

• Don’t blanket a wet horse.

 

• Don’t leave damp coolers on your horse under another blanket.

 

Putting horse blankets on

 

• As you place the blanket on your horse, you have two options: swing it over them like a giant cape that could eat them, or put it gently over their back and unfold it calmly and gently.

 

• Swinging blankets around increases the chance of a spook, and the buckles could smack. You can also whack yourself with one of those flying buckles.

 

• There’s always a debate in the horse world about whether you should buckle the chess closure first and work backward or start at the back and work forward. There are pros and cons to each method.

 

• For the safest blanketing, you should be in a comfortable area that they know well, like a grooming stall, and they are buckled in with quick-release straps, just in case.

 

• If you start buckling in the front and your horse spooks, the blanket could slip around their neck, and they could step on it with their front legs and get tangled.

 

• When you start buckling at the back, there’s a chance that it could slide off their rump if your horse decides to step sideways or forward in a hurry.

 

• Accidents like this are rare, but equines love to humble us.

 

Taking them off

 

• Removing sheets and blankets is very similar to putting them on. You want to have a calm, quiet horse that is confident in their surroundings as you work.

 

• It’s often a good idea to bunch up the blanket over their back and then slide it over instead of pulling the whole thing over. Punching it up first makes it much more manageable, especially if the blanket is heavy and bulky.

 

Dealing with static

 

• Dry weather means static in the air, which can cause static shocks to your horse. Many horses are unbothered by this, but they can still get surprised.

 

• To reduce the likelihood of static while removing blankets, you can try the following:

 

• • Run a damp cloth or fabric softener sheet between your horse and the blanket to reduce static.
  • Try rubbing them with a damp cloth or a fabric softener sheet before you put the blanket on.
  • Use blankets with cotton liners, as these tend to generate less static than synthetic liners. The downside is that cotton tends to get crustier more easily.

 

How to Properly Fit and Adjust a Horse Blanket

 

• You’ll need to find a good fit to ensure your horse is comfy and can move freely.

 

• After you know what size blanket your horse needs, pop it on.

 

• Then, adjust the leg straps, belly surcingles, and chest closures. You may need to make several adjustments for each piece to fall perfectly into place.

 

Neck pieces, like this detachable one, should fit over the wither area.

 

Checking for proper fit

 

• Check these areas when evaluating the fit of a sheet.

 

Chest closure

 

• The chest closure should keep the neck opening in front of the withers. If the neck opening is too big, it can get stuck behind the withers, creating discomfort and even sores.

 

• The chest closure should also leave your horse’s shoulders free. The shoulder points should not be squished.

 

Surcingles and belly straps

 

• When lying down, the surcingles should leave enough room for your horse’s belly expansion but not enough room for a hoof to get stuck there.

 

• Change blanket styles if there’s a chance a hoof could get caught.

 

Leg straps

 

• Cross the leg straps under your horse to secure them and minimize rubbing against the inner leg.

 

• Secure the right side leg strap to the right side of the blanket.

 

• Take the left side leg strap, loop it through the other strap, and secure it back to the left side.

 

Tail cord

 

• The tail cord should be loose enough to dangle without rubbing your horse’s legs.

 

• You’ll want to monitor the tail cord for urine and manure and switch to leg straps to avoid any accidental distribution by the cord.

 

Maybe this blanket could be longer to cover more cute butt?

 

Watch your horse walk and trot around

 

• Let your horse play a little, and watch for any interference around the shoulders and over the withers. Make adjustments and repeat.

 

• If you can’t get a good fit, it’s time to switch sizes, styles, or brands.

 

Temperature Guide for Using Sheets and Blankets

 

• You’ll need to match your horse’s coat to the temperature to determine the best blanket. Your horse’s turnout blanket is always the best pick if they will be outside.

 

• Opt for a heavier denier in wet weather, lighter sheets in cool weather, and add neck pieces to cover more of the hair coat and boost warmth.

 

Blanketing guidelines for clipped horses:

 

• Use a lightweight sheet or blanket with around 100g of fill when temperatures are between 40°F and 50°F.

 

• Opt for a medium-weight blanket with about 200g of fill for temperatures between 30°F and 40°F.

 

• Choose heavyweight blankets with 300g of fill or more when temperatures drop below 30°F.

 

Blanketing guidelines for unclipped horses:

 

• Lightweight sheets or blankets are ideal for temperatures ranging from 30°F to 40°F.

 

• Medium-weight blankets work well in temperatures between 20°F and 30°F.

 

• Heavy blankets are suitable for temperatures below 20°F.

 

Notice the reflective strips on the tail flaps. 

 

Horse blanketing guide – also consider these situations

 

• Factor in wind chill and overcast skies. A biting wind or gray skies mean colder horses. A clear day with ample sun and less wind means your horse’s blankets can be lighter.

 

• Consider how much your horse eats. Many horses don’t have forage in front of them 24/7, and if the temps drop while they are not eating, they will use their body reserves to stay warm and may benefit from blankets.

 

• How old is your horse? Young horses and senior horses need extra protection from drastic weather.

 

• Could your horse get wet? If so, use a blanket with a neck covering.

 

• Speaking of neck coverings – if you typically use a medium weight but add a neckpiece, it becomes more of a 300g blanket. You may need this, or you may need to use a 100g with a neck covering instead to equal that medium weight.

Is Your Horse Cold?

 

• Please don’t rely on your hands feeling your horse’s ears to determine if your horse is cold. It’s too subjective and inaccurate.

 

• If you’ve been scrubbing buckets in icy water and you feel your horse’s ears are warm, they are! If you’ve been in your toasty car for half an hour and you check your horse’s ears and they are cold, of course they are.

 

Take their temperature

 

• It’s fast to take your horse’s temperature. An accurate reading from a thermometer will tell you if their core temperature is safe. Call your vet if it’s below their regular reading.

 

Shivering horses

 

• Horses, like people, will shiver when they are excessively cold. It makes the most sense that shivering is natural. However, it’s uncomfortable and a huge red flag. Part of our job as horse stewards is to ensure they are safe and comfortable, and ignoring shivering is ignoring the importance of warmth and your horse’s health.

 

• The shivering response can be dangerous as it can lead to hypothermia, which is a veterinary emergency. If you notice your shivering, this is the first sign that you need to help warm them up and talk to your vet so their body temperature doesn’t drop to a dangerous level.

 

Read all about hypothermia here.

 

All bundled up for sub-zero weather.

 

Is Your Horse Too Hot in a Blanket?

 

• Some horses can get too warm in a blanket. The key is to check for sweating and take their temperature. And consider what they were doing.

 

• If your horse has been chilling in the shade and there’s sweat, they are over-blanketed.

 

• If they have just had a big case of the zoomies, they are hot because of the zipping around. Wait a while and reassess.

 

Horse Blanket Guide – Cleaning and Storing Sheets and Blankets

 

• Blankets are expensive and tempting for rats and mice to create a nest. They are also a great way to keep your horse dirty if you let the inside of the blanket get gross.

 

• Here are some simple tips for cleaning and blanket storage to keep your horse clean and the bugs and rats away.

 

Routine cleaning and care without washing

 

• Daily care goes a long way to keeping your horse and their blankies clean and fresh. Well, fresh-ish.

 

• Brush the outer shell daily, but only if it’s dry. Although you may want a separate blanket brush, a stiff grooming brush is handy for dirt and excess hair.

 

• Wipe down the inside lining with a damp cloth. Toss your blanket over the fence inside out for quick drying if you use too much water.

 

• If the blanket is gross or has wet mud, spray it off in the wash rack and allow it to air dry. The liner may get wet inside, so ensure that the area dries, too.

 

• Use a sheet or slinky covering before you blanket. These thin coverings are much easier to clean in the washer and will protect the blanket lining.

 

 

Daily storage of blankets

 

• You have a few options here, and you can even toss them in a pile in some dusty corner, but I promise there are better options.

 

• Blanket bars on stall doors are one option, although horses can chew on them. Many a horse has also gotten their lower jaw hooked on that bar, sometimes with a large vet bill. The horse’s stall door isn’t a super idea.

 

• You can use large (and I mean large) hooks. Hang them high so the blanket’s not on the ground. It’s also helpful to hang them from the withers to keep them off the ground.

 

Washing Blankets in a washing machine

 

• Using a washer for horse blankets is either a great idea or a truly terrible one. Not all machines handle blankets well, and not all fabrics (like wool coolers) should even be in a machine unless you want to turn your horse’s cooler into a chihuahua-sized cooler.

 

• Here are simple steps to follow:
  • Brush off as much hair and dirt as you can.
  • Close any velcro or snaps that could catch on other parts of the fabric and yank.
  • Cover snaps, buckles, and surcingle T closures with socks to save your washer from dents and dings. You can use zip ties to secure the socks.
  • Use a mild detergent for horse blankets or a “free” detergent to minimize your horse’s possible skin reactions.
  • Use the gentle cycle, and add an extra rinse for good measure.
  • It’s usually best to let blankets and horse sheet air dry.
  • You may find a laundromat in the area that allows horse owners to wash blankets, and always ask before you sully up their machines, just in case.

 

• If you prefer to avoid washing the blanket yourself, consider using a professional horse blanket washing service. Pros with different services can make repairs and have specialized equipment to prevent improper washing. They often have machines that can easily handle different thicknesses and filthy blankets.

 

Wash racks are handy spots to hose off everything. 

 

Wash your sheets without a washing machine

 

• Here’s a great chance to get creative with washing horse sheets. It’s easiest when you can hang your horse’s clothes over a fence or two crossties latched together.

 

• Spot-clean any areas with gentle detergent, water, and a stiff brush.

 

• You may need to hose off the inside and outside and be done with it.

 

• For a complete clean that’s a bit more thorough, use a giant tub or bucket (and I mean giant) as a washing machine. You will be doing the swirling around. Rinse well on a line before air drying.

 

• The self-serve car wash is another great place to wash blankets. Most car wash bays have clips that hold floor mats for spraying and easily hold a blanket.

 

• Don’t risk any mold growing by air drying completely before storage.

 

Re-waterproofing sheets and blankets

 

• You can redo the waterproof coating of horse sheets and blankets in two ways.

 

• One, you can use spray-on products. Some blanket manufacturers make them. Sprays designed for camping gear are another option.

 

• You could also use a wash-in product, which is infinitely easier and less smelly than most sprays. Follow the instructions; you don’t want to wash in waterproofing and seal up any dirt simultaneously.

 

Long-Term Storage Ideas

 

• The end of blanket season is the time for deep cleaning, re-waterproofing, and horse blanket repairs.

 

• Once dry, you can fold, roll, or smash them into whatever shape you like.

 

• It doesn’t matter how they fold as long as they go in a sealed container to prevent rodents from using the filling as a home. Sealed containers also help prevent mold from creating an unwanted science experiment.

 

• Options include bins and those bags where you suck out all the air with a vacuum.

 

• The best places to store them for the long haul are off the ground, in climate-controlled areas, and far away from rodent stomping grounds. Improper storage leads to an unexpected shopping trip.

 

 

How often should you clean your horse’s blankets?

 

Clean them daily by brushing dirt from the outer shell and blanket lining. Depending on your horse and the type of blanket or horse sheet you use, you can do a full wash as needed. The daily cleaning and brushing away of hair and dirt, plus grooming your horse well, keeps blankets cleaner. A blanket laundry service is an easy way to do this.

 

Can a Horse Wear a Blanket All Year?

 

Technically, yes, but only when necessary. Blanketing in winter helps clipped horses or those needing extra protection from cold weather. Hard keepers with poor body condition benefit from blanketing in winter. There’s no issue in the summer and warmer climates unless they need protection from the sun or flies.

 

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