The Best Practices for Slow Feeding Horses

Slow feeding mimics grazing

Why Slow Feeding Horses is Important

• Their entire digestive system functions optimally when the amount of feed is small, allowing them to chew and digest throughout most of the day. Free-choice hay given 24/7 is best. However, it doesn’t mean they spend all those hours eating; they engage in other non-eating activities for a couple of hours each day. For most equines, 17 hours of eating is plenty and allows for rest and play, too, and seems to be the norm for most horses. All of this chewing creates a healthy horse in many ways.

Mental Stimulation

• There’s a common denominator between horse vices and training issues – boredom. When horses eat more significant, less frequent “meals” that often include commercial feeds, there are long spurts where they have nothing going on – hence the likelihood of wood chewing, cribbing, weaving, or any other vice your horse can invent. When combined with stall life, the chances of a vice developing increase.

• For the horse that loves to chew wood, researchers believe this is due to a lack of chew time instead of a self-soothing vice. Either way, it’s a problem for horses and your fencing. Some horses will also be quick to chew down the barn or sheds.

• When grazing in pasture or on dry lots, ensure there is plenty of forage available and sufficient water to help your horse’s gut properly digest feed. Water is life, and the average horse drinks about 10 gallons of water a day. The amount of water varies, so always provide much more than they need. It should also be clean and fresh. Most equines prefer to drink cold water, although they will drink MORE warm water. If given a choice, they prefer cold.

• Supplementing sparse pasture and dry lots with legume or grass hay helps your horse’s body and mind move and chew more efficiently. It’s easy to use slow feeders with large bales or round bales of supplemental hay.

These openings are about 2 inches – and work well with this type of timothy blend hay. 

Digestion and Health Benefits of Slow Feeding Horses

• Our equine friends need to continue eating due to the delicate nature of their digestive tracts. Their bodies continually produce digestive enzymes and acids, which require a near-constant supply of forage to prevent damage to the stomach.

• The horse’s diet must also feed the myriad of microbes that digest sugars, starches, and fiber in the hindgut. Digestive disturbances often happen when those microbes receive a larger volume of sugars and starches.

• There are several significant concerns that can arise from feeding horses improperly. Ulcers, hindgut acidosis, laminitis, and colic are the biggies.

Read this for the big picture of your horse’s digestive system

Read about the equine stomach here.

Gastric ulcers

• As equines eat, digestion starts in the mouth and ends on your manure fork.

• The mouth, esophagus, and stomach start to process forage and feed at the beginning of the digestive process. Saliva and chewing help soften and digest food, while the esophagus transports it to the stomach.

• Fun fact: horses can’t throw up. This fun horse trivia has its issues, especially when their bellies are full of gas.

• Onto the stomach! Here, digestive acids secrete enzymes around the clock. Their job is to break down the horse’s feed further, and when food is present, that acid is occupied. When the stomach is empty, those acids and enzymes are still there, wanting to do their job, but the only thing to act upon is the stomach itself.

Read more about why horses can’t vomit

The problem with stomach acid

• The stomach’s lower section, the glandular mucosa, can handle the digestive acids. Specialized glands there secrete mucus and bicarbonates to buffer acidity and keep the lower stomach lining from eroding.  

• The upper portion of the stomach, known as the squamous region, lacks such glands. Therefore, there is no protection from acidic digestive juices. If a horse isn’t chewing enough, the stomach’s acids are lonely and will start to “eat” the upper area of the stomach. This is how gastric ulcers happen. 

• During exercise, if the stomach is empty, those digestive fluids will splash about into the upper areas of the stomach. Feeding long-stem, cubed, or pelleted hay before riding helps protect the stomach from developing gastric ulcers.

• Slow feeding your horse gives the stomach something to do and a job for those digestive acids, reducing their likelihood of touching the sensitive areas of your horse’s stomach.

Read all you could ever want to know about ulcers.

Hindgut acidosis

• The small intestine is responsible for digesting sugars and starches. However, if there is too much sugary feed in the digestive system, it will pass into the hindgut, specifically the cecum. This is where fermentation happens to digest the forage. Hindgut fermentation is usually a boring process. However, when horses rapidly ingest starches and sugars, this fermentation can go awry and create numerous problems. Horses can overeat in a few ways – eating more than a few pounds of concentrate, lush spring grass, stressed grass, or overeating hay.

• When that abundance of starches and sugars enters the cecum, those microbes in the hindgut will feast upon this bounty and, in the process, create lactic acid. The overall pH of the hindgut then starts to drop and become more acidic, hence the name hindgut acidosis.

• Now, you have a situation where the hindgut is out of whack; microbes die due to the pH changes, and endotoxins are released from the dying bacteria. Endotoxins are a component of the cell wall of certain microbes and can be particularly hazardous to horses. OH, and there’s an increase in gas, too. This is hindgut acidosis.

More information about hindgut ulcers can be found here, and details on gorging on foods can be found here.

Laminitis

• Let’s take this pH scenario one step further.

• Suppose the volume of sugars and starches is large enough for the partying microbes to make a mess. In that case, the resulting change in pH will also increase the permeability of the intestinal lining, allowing those endotoxins to enter the bloodstream. This triggers laminitis.

• The laminitis risk is why slow-feeding horses is so important. Small meals usually won’t upset the digestive system to the point of creating laminitis and founder. But larger volumes or faster eating do.

• Aside from being wildly painful, laminitis can lead to founder when the hoof bones shift and sink.

Colic

• When the pH changes, another consequence is gas production, which triggers colic. This gas is, unfortunately, exacerbated by the horse’s inability to vomit as well.

• Gas colics may resolve quickly with your veterinarian’s help, but they can be painful and may lead to a twisted gut.

• Many horses exhibit signs of colic when they have laminitis, and vice versa.

• Whenever your horse shows signs of pain, call your veterinarian. Finding the proper diagnosis quickly reduces your horse’s pain, making a swift recovery more likely.

Feeding steamed hay can benefit some horses with respiratory problems.  You can use slow feeders for steamed hay, but be careful in warm temps; you don’t want the middle parts to ferment.

Guidelines for Slow Feeding Horses

• These basic feeding rules keep your horse happy, healthy, and busy.

• Feed forage first, before commercial feeds, and definitely before exercise.

• Feed often and in small quantities for grain meals.

• Feed according to your horse’s body weight and body condition. Your horse’s calorie needs depend on their body condition score, exercise levels, medical issues, and other factors. Start by feeding about 1.5% of your horse’s body weight in forage.

• Keep feeding to a rough schedule. Horses love routine, but should be flexible. Also, if you keep your horse on a reliable slow feeding system, a regular schedule to the minute matters less.

• Slowly introduce new food, including hay, supplements, and concentrated commercial feeds. It takes about two weeks to introduce new forages and feeds safely.

• Fresh water is a must. Make it readily available, too!

• Add water to your horse’s feed. You can soak or steam your horse’s hay for metabolic issues and reduce dust. For grains and pellets, adding water accomplishes several things. You help your horse’s hydration and slow down the eating of grains when wet. Additionally, you can find slow feeders and horse toys designed for use with pelleted and grain products.

• Avoid extreme exercise immediately after eating. Additionally, avoid exercising on an empty stomach. Forage is best to fill the stomach and create a “hay hat” that protects the stomach from acid splashing.

• Monitor your horse’s weight regularly, approximately every few weeks. It’s easy to use a weight tape to track gains and losses.

• Maintain pastures and mow if necessary. The goal is to reduce weeds and prevent grass from seeding, as this increases the sugars and starches in pasture grass.

Read more about mowing pastures here.

Yes, you can find slow feeders for grains and pellets. 

Minimizing concentrates and maximizing forage

• Ideally, every equine and farm animal has the perfect pasture all year, without needing supplements. HA! The reality is that it’s not possible. Even the most ideal pasture will likely lack some vitamins or minerals.

To minimize concentrated horse feeds:

• Use ration balancers to add nutrients without calories.

• Use specific supplements instead of commercial feeds. You can easily mix them with hay pellets and water. This may also be more affordable!

• If they need calories, add fats. You can also add a higher-calorie hay.

Some other things to consider about your horses’ nutrition:

• It’s possible only to supplement seasonally. A safe and healthy pasture in the warmer months can fulfill your horse’s dietary requirements. BUT! When grass is under snow, dormant in the winter, or overgrazed, your horse will need you to fill in the blanks.

The Order of Feeding Matters

• There is no picture-perfect way to feed horses except to maximize slow feeding. And that has to happen within budgets, schedules, facilities, and availability to pasture. Some simple feeding practices help your routine and your horse’s health. 

Roughage

• Feed hay first. Hay is a convenient way to slow your horse’s digestion before bagged feeds and pasture. Also, your horse’s appetite is sated, so there’s a negligible risk of inhaling the high-sugar stuff and causing digestive upset.

Pellets, bagged feeds, and rations

• Split any supplements and bagged feeds into multiple daily feedings: the more feedings, the merrier. 

• You can also use slow feeders designed for pellets and grains to slow things down. Some horse owners will sprinkle rations on top of their hay to have a similar effect. 

Pasture grazing

• While pasture is the most “natural” forage for horses, it’s not always the best. The grass may not be available year-round, and in some areas, it grows so profusely that 24/7 turnout can turn horses into laminitis-prone animals. Many horses with metabolic issues have an even higher risk of developing laminitis when grazing on pasture. 

• Luckily, your horse can wear a slow feeder on his gorgeous face. Grazing muzzles are hay nets your horse wears, making the pasture safer and less likely to create an overweight horse. 

If your horse needs to wear a hay net all year long, they can! 

The Best Slow Feeders for Horses for Stalls and Outside

• The best slow feeder is one that your horse can use. The material of one type of drum slow feeder smells funny, or the color is wrong for your horse’s eyes, or they can’t figure it out.

• Equines with arthritis in their necks may also need to try several types of feeders to find the most comfortable one. Alternatively, there may be another injury that complicates feeding. 

Things to consider when you are choosing a slow feeder:

• Portability. If you show often, how convenient would it be to bring your drum or slow feeder?

• Safety. Are corners and edges smooth? Can they get stuck? Will teeth and hooves be safe? Can your herd share their feeders safely, and the boss mare (or gelding) doesn’t restrict access to others?

• How much can it hold? A small hanging hay net is excellent if you are at the barn 17 times a day to check on hay and water. If you need to keep your horse chewing for hours, consider getting one that holds several flakes or a bale. 

• Hay nets and Hayplay bags can hold a few flakes, half a bale, or an entire bale. Knowing how many lbs of hay per day they need helps you choose the best feeder.

• Then, consider factors such as price, durability, and ease of cleaning.

This barn uses hay nets secured into tubs as slow feeders. 

Dangers of Slow Feeders for Horses

• While the use of slow feeders is typically the best thing for horses, there are some concerns to be wary of. 

Equine teeth  

• Openings that are minuscule or made of hard plastic or metal may wear down the front surfaces of teeth. Observe your horse as they eat, and always check their teeth when grooming.

• If you and your vet find questionable dental wear, it’s time to change slow feeders. Don’t eliminate slow feeders without increasing the likelihood of ulcers, colic, laminitis, boredom, or vices.

Size of the openings

• Aside from teeth, the ease with which your horse can eat matters. Consider the openings paired with what type of hay you feed. Long, stemmy hay is frustrating to pull from tight spaces.  

Horseshoes, hooves, and legs

• The most natural grazing position for slow feeding horses is the ground. But protect the slow-feeder net from hooves and legs that can get stuck.  Some horse toys and hay bags are safe for ground eating.

• If your horse does well with a slow feed hay net or hanging HayPlay bag, lash it inside a large feed tub or trough. The benefits of slow-feeding horses and the risk of getting stuck are reduced.

How to tell if your horse eats too slow or too fast

• Change styles if the feeder is too slow or your horse has trouble eating because of dental or health issues. Conversely, double up on nets or try another slow feeder if nothing seems to slow them down. 

• Your slow-feeding system may cause your equine buddy to eat too slowly if you notice:

• • • Weight loss.
    • Too much hay is trapped in the feeder when you fill it up.
    • Quidding – this is when your horse can’t correctly chew and will spit out chunks of chewed-up bits, sometimes as big as your palm.
    • Lethargy, acting funny, feeling colicky, cranky, or not acting like themselves.

• Your horse is eating too fast if you notice no hay left over, your horse is without anything to eat for hours, or your barn and fences are getting chewed. If your horse is in a herd, you may think they are eating too quickly, but they are pushed aside. It’s always best to monitor the whole herd.

Adjusting feeds and feeding practices for older equines

• Feeding senior horses varies in a few ways. Adjust the feeders, schedule, vitamin and mineral needs, and calorie requirements concerning health problems and activity levels. Here are some things to think about:

• Dental health – make your horse’s hay and feeds easier to chew. Switch brands, add water, or try a different enrichment toy.

• Caloric needs may change as your horse ages. They could become a hard keeper, requiring more calories, or an easy keeper with metabolic issues such as PPID or EMS.

• Movement – keep your older guy moving! Turnout is best, and many slow feeding options should be placed around the paddocks and pastures to encourage walking about.

• Laminitis and colic risk – with less movement and metabolic disorders comes the increased risk of colic and founder. Be vigilant about checking your horse’s vital signs, weight, and overall condition daily to stay ahead of health risks.

Routine care for equine teeth

• Have your veterinarian examine your horse’s teeth every six months. Many equines require dental floating every other year, some every year, while others need it every six months. Even though horses slow down tooth growth as they age, dental issues still crop up.

• In between vet visits, you can notice the following while they are eating:

• • Dropping food – this is easy to spot when eating pellets or grains
  • Quid – when the teeth can’t adequately chew forage, it forms clumps that fall out
  • Taking too long to eat – slow eaters may have dental issues
  • Get picky about feeds
  • Have weight issues – either too heavy or too thin
  • Have a funny mouth smell (dental abscesses absolutely STINK)
  • Fuss with the bit during a ride
  • Have a change in attitude about being handled around the face – new headshyness
  • Have any broken, chipped, or cracked teeth you can see when checking gums

These are horse quids dropped from a senior horse with dental issues. 

This article about senior horse care has more great stuff.

Read this for more information about estimating your horse’s weight.

An introduction to equine nutrition is here.

• Once again, we have proof that equine ownership is one big experiment. While we understand the anatomy and science behind slow feeding horses, sometimes individual and facility factors force us to try various methods to feed our equine friends more naturally.

If designing your horse’s diet seems overwhelming, it is! There are many moving parts, but an equine nutritionist can help you create the perfect plan for slow feeding horses that considers their caloric and nutritional needs.