Cleaning Tack – How to Preserve Your Saddle and Bridle

Cleaning tack is a barn chore that you either like or despise. However you feel about it, it’s bend done after every ride to keep your leather safe and supple by reducing cracks and maintaining strength. Taking care of your tack ensures it will take care of you.

The Importance of Regular Tack Maintenance

Inside leather is a network of protein bonds. This intricate structure gives leather tack its strength and flexibility. Over time, these bonds will break down, increasing the stiffness and weakening the leather. This breakdown leads to cracks and breakage, which typically only happens in front of someone very fancy and important, and may even result in the spontaneous meeting of some EMT’s and firefighters.

The sole purpose of maintaining clean leather is to keep it strong and supple. Sweat, direct sunlight, the elements, mold, and lack of care lead to crusty, unsafe saddles and bridles.

Follow the Manufacturer’s Directions for Cleaning Tack

• Many leather and synthetic fabrics make up the saddle parts and will vary between manufacturers. Find the proper products and techniques for cleaning your saddle and bridle from the manufacturer. Instructions are a great place to start, as is the manufacturer’s website.

• The many leather options, like calf, buffalo, and even ostrich often benefit from specific types of cleanser.

• You usually can’t go wrong with generic glycerin saddle soap. 

• Castile soap is another option if glycerin products make your tack gummy and sticky.

This article has many leather cleaner options to peruse.

This small finishing brush is great for some leather types. 

Tools for tack cleaning – the tack sponge, rags, hooks, and more

• The easiest way to make horse tack care part of the routine is to have tools that make it easy. Ideally, you have a small area in your tack room or grooming stall to place and hang tack for cleaning.

• Bridle and halter hooks make holding and figure-8-ing things easy while keeping reins from dangling on the floor.

• Have a bucket of warm water handy, too.

• Use a small shelf or hanging basket to hold:

• • A dry towel
  • Your sponges
  • An old toothbrush
  • A good quality saddle soap
  • Metal polishing wipes
  • Your leather conditioner of choice

It’s safe to use a brush on some grains of saddle leather.

Remove the Dust, Sweat, and Hair Before You Deep Clean Tack

• Conditioning leather is only helpful if it’s clean. Get the superficial dust, sweat, and hair off the tack before you clean.

• Wipe the saddle, halter, or bridle with a damp sponge or cloth that has some texture. This simple process removes so much grime!

• Lift all flaps and open all buckles to work into the cracks. Seams are often the first place that hair and goop like to collect. You can also check for rust, too.

• A stiff nylon brush can get into the nooks and crannies to remove horse hairs that want to live there. Brushes work for saddles with tons of texture; you may not want to risk scratches with smooth leather.

• While you clean, it’s a great time to check all of the stitching and the overall health of your gear.

• Then, you can move on to the deeper cleaning.

Don’t forget to inspect the stirrup leathers where the stirrup rests.

Saddle Soaps – Glycerine-Based and Beyond

• Less can be more when it comes to glycerin-based leather cleaners. Use a damp sponge with saddle soap and massage that into your saddle and bridle.

• Castile soap is another option. This vegetable-based soap won’t get gummy or sticky in the pores of the leather. Use it diluted in some water for maximum effectiveness.

• Castile soap is always a good idea for your leather riding boots. Glycerin soap on boots leads to an uneven surface that looks and feels horrible after applying boot polish.

• Using a soft finishing brush to work soap into crevices and on textured leather can be highly effective. You can also put more oomph into a brush than a sponge.

• Wipe the suds with a cloth before applying the conditioner. 

It’s easy to apply neatsfoot oil with a small brush. 

Conditioning after soaping

• The most important step in cleaning saddles and bridles is using a conditioner. Aside from softening the leather, it enhances the colors and texture.

• Lederbalsams are conditioning pastes that apply easily with a sponge or cloth. A balm, if you will. They smell great, sink in much faster than oils, and provide a nice sheen to the leather.

• Neatsfoot oil takes longer to absorb. Neatsfoot oil may darken your saddle, but hydrophane definitely will. The jury’s out on the olive oil, but the general thinking is that any oil will darken leathers over time.

• Avoid oiling any areas with saddle flocking directly underneath. The oils will soak through to the flocking and may interfere with the saddle fit. This is fine if your saddle fitter regularly fits your horse and adjusts the flocking, and you are not oiling often. For foam saddle inserts that can’t be adjusted, always avoid oils in that area.

Use oils for conditioning new leather

• It’s just standard equestrian practice to use neatsfoot oil to soften and darken a new saddle. Shades of brown leather often begin orange; some neatsfoot oil can tame that color. 

• For particularly stiff bridles, pop them into a baggie or container with oil and let them sit for a few hours, then wipe off any excess and let it soak in for a few days.

• Use an old toothbrush to apply the neatsfoot for hard-to-reach areas of saddles and bridles. Or wrap a small cloth around the end of a sweat scraper to apply the oil.

Make your own saddle cleaner and conditioner

• You can also make saddle cleaner/conditioner in your kitchen. You’ll need:
  • Olive oil
  • Milk
  • Glycerin soap
  • Optional essential oils for scented goodness

• To make this cleaner/conditioner combo:

• • Melt your glycerin soap base in the microwave
  • Add about 1/4 cup of milk or cream to 2 cups of your melted soap
  • Add a few dashes of essential oils as perfume
  • Add a small amount – say less than 1/4 cup – of olive oil or neatsfoot oil
  • Let your concoction harden in a reusable container

Find more details here on how to DIY saddle soap.

Common Tack Cleaning Challenges: Water, Dryness, and Mold Issues

Wet tack

• Your wet tack needs immediate conditioning if caught in the rain or dunk in a trough. Do your best to towel off the excess water, then condition it while it’s damp. If you wait until it’s dry, those critical bonds begin to fray, which will contribute to weakening the leather’s strength.

Dried-out leather

• Crunchy gear need cleaning and lots of conditioning. You may be able to restore some of the suppleness, but if the dryness has created cracks, you are venturing into “embarrassing tack fail video” territory.

• Cracked leather has passed being safe and can be conditioned back into softness, but not strength.

Mold and mildew

• While you don’t want to let your tack hang out in direct sunlight, make an exception for mold and mildew. Mouldy leather is full of spores that, once disturbed by brushing or cleaning, will poof into the air and create more mold and mildew. Let the sunshine kill the spores.

• Then, brush off the moldy parts and get everything back in working order.

Avoiding Common Mistakes When Cleaning Tack

• Too much water – You only need a small amount to add to your soap for maximum effectiveness. Wipe away any excess as soon as you can.

• Not regularly cleaning leads to crispy and unsafe leather. And let’s mold take residence.

• Using oil that interferes with stitching – Many traditional conditioners and oils may break down stitching. The newer products have taken care of that issue.

• Not inspecting folds, buckles, and stitching – Unfolding stirrup leathers, undoing buckles, and checking stitching lets you stay ahead of tack failures. The most likely places to break are the ones that you overlook.

• Improper storage – It’s always best to keep your horse’s gear covered. Saddle racks and hanging hooks should also avoid denting the panels and crownpiece. Using pipe insulation over saddle racks is an easy remedy if you need to modify your existing racks.

These bridle hooks are not the best, but also not the worst.  And that white leather is so dirty – time for a deep clean. 

Tack Cleaning Beyond Leather – Buckles, Stirrups, and Specialty Leathers

Metals

• Wipe your buckles, stirrups, and miscellaneous metal pieces with a damp cloth. You can add sparkle with a metal cleaning cloth when necessary.

• For bits, let them soak in some warm water. If you like, add a drop or two of dish soap, then rinse well. Don’t use metal cleaning or polishing cloths on bits or bit rings.

Patent, unusual, and white leathers

• For specialty leathers, check with the manufacturer first. Generally speaking, think gentle cleansing.

• Patent leathers need the softest cloths, with some vaseline for shine.

• You may be able to use those eraser cleaning bars for white leather, but only if stained. It’s best to opt for soft cloths to avoid creating nicks and dings that can hold dirt.

• For specialty leather, also think of soft materials when you are cleaning tack.

A good stiff brush can help clean stirrup pads. 

Cleaning Synthetic Tack

• Synthetic tack can often be hosed and wiped, then air dried. Of course, within reason.

• Daily care should include brushing off hair and dried sweat, and wiping down with a warm, damp cloth.

• Although it’s easier to clean synthetic tack, don’t skip the inspection of stitching, buckles, and any folding parts.

How to Store Tack to Prevent Damage

• Climate-controlled areas are best for storing tack long-term as long as they are not too dry or humid. Covered is best, too.

• Remove the stirrup leathers and roll them to alleviate the severe bend where the stirrup hangs. You should consider undoing buckles on bridles, too.

• Check on your stored tack regularly to inspect for mold or excessive dryness. Clean and condition as necessary if you spot a problem.

After lederbalsam application.

How often should tack be cleaned?

Many pros require daily cleaning tack, which keeps your investment clean and safe. Regular cleaning prevents dirt, sweat, and moisture from damaging the leather. Condition with a lederbalsam after cleaning and oil only as needed for new horse gear.

How do you prevent mold and mildew on saddles and bridles?

Store your clean, conditioned, and dry tack in a well-ventilated space that is not damp. If your horse gear is not used frequently, clean and condition it weekly to prevent mold and mildew spores from growing. Some products can help repel mold, too.

Is cleaning English tack different from Western tack?

Cleaning techniques can differ between English and Western tack. English gear is usually finer leather that does well with gentle sponges, cloths, and products. Heavier and thicker Western gears may do best with more scrubbing and a heavier conditioner.

How does cleaning tack help it last longer?

Regularly cleaning tack prevents damage from sweat, dirt, and moisture that causes the leather to break down and crack. Your horse’s gear will stay supple and strong, increasing its lifespan and resale value. Cracked leather results from neglect, making the gear more likely to break.

Videos

Tack cleaning demo

Leather care basics to avoid your tack drying out

Alternatives to glycerin soap